I almost died at Meat Cove

After exploring the Bay of Fundy, our next destination was Meat Cove. We heard of an interesting campground that sits on the top of a bluff overlooking the ocean and cove below. You are literally camping on the edge of the cliff. Sounded intriguing, so off we went.

Meat Cove campground sitting on the hillside overlooking the cove.

It was an 8 hour drive, so we decided to split it across two days. The first was a lazy crawl to Linwood Nova Scotia with sightseeing along the way. We did enough sightseeing that we left at 11am, and arrived at Linwood 9 hours later. Most of the morning was nice, but toward late afternoon it started to rain once again.

We found a small hidden turnout off the road and along the cliff overlooking the ocean. A perfect stop for lunch. There were many seals playing in the surf which made for a fun spectacle. If we were in a larger motorhome, as in the past, we would’ve had to pass by this great spot. I love the trade off on size versus convenience of the Class B RVs over larger versions.

The rain was on and off, but the issue was the wind that came with it.
30mph sustained with frequent gusts made for some white knuckle driving. We arrived fairly late at the campground, around 8pm, but the owners kept the office open for us. Very accommodating owners, greatly appreciated, thank you.

I loved the wind whistling through the windows during the night. With 25-30mph winds, there was plenty of it. But then again, I am one of those nutcases that you will find wandering around photographing during a hurricane. Stormy weather always fascinates me, and I try to experience it, albeit safely. Other than the heavy rocking of the RV that sometimes woke me up, I slept very well, helped by a full day or driving to tire me out.

Another class B RV was here when we arrived. I noticed far more class Bs, and a distinct shortage of class As, while in Canada. The opposite of what I see in the US. Canada knows how to travel light 🙂

Linwood Campground was on a hill overlooking the harbor. A small campground, but clean and friendly. We didn’t see much of it, due to arriving late and then leaving first thing in the morning. Rather than have breakfast at camp, we like to find a nice place along the road with a great scenic view. We have the capability to do so in the Roadtrek, and it was one of the draws to a smaller RV versus something larger. So we take advantage of it whenever possible.

Oh yea, back to the topic, Meat Cove.

One of the campsites at Meat Cove Campground is on the other side of this rock. A picnic table barely pokes out from behind the rocks. I wouldn’t want to have to walk to the bathrooms from this site at night. There may be a liability waiver that needs to be signed to camp on it.

The final portion of the drive to meat cove was adventurous. The road turned to a mix of dirt, gravel, and occasional paved sections. The paved sections were on the steeper sections to allow for better road conditions during the winter months. A few sections were literally driving along a very steep and long drop off. Important to keep your tires on the road and pay attention! Pot holes were everywhere.  Due to the rain and wind, everything was muddy.  It really felt more like off-road back country driving.

Wait, that is pretty much what we are doing!

Meat cove is in the middle of no where. My wife said it very well, “We are driving to the edge of the earth, and the top of the world”. Somewhat of an exaggeration, but the furthest tip of Nova Scotia high on a cliff sounds close enough.  I wouldn’t venture to Meat Cove in a anything larger than a Class B. While you could make it on the road to the campground, once you are there it’s really only big enough for cars, vans, and tents, and maybe a small class C up by the parking lot.

Campfire overlook the cove. Wonderful sunrises and sunsets each day. Wind was constant being on the ocean and up high.

Now the ‘How I almost lost my life at Meat Cove’ story. Click bait? Not really, but maybe a little. Remember the rain and mud along the drive? The howling wind and rain the day before? Keep that thought.

After finally arriving and pulling into the campground, we needed to find a spot and park. We were directed to a great spot right on the top of the cliff overlooking the ocean. The attendant dropped the rope separating the camp area from the road. A nice grassy knoll with small tiered campsites. I put the van in drive and slowly crept forward toward the edge. Once the rear wheels left the dirt road, I might as well have been on a sheet of glass covered with olive oil. The rubber tires had no grip on the wet grass. I knew immediately what the problem was. While the rain stopped an hour or so ago, everything was still wet and slippery.

I skidded for nearly 20′ and stopped 10′ from the edge seeing nothing by ocean below me through the front windshield. I can’t tell you what it did to my heart rate, but my doctor would most likely tell me I just passed the cardio stress test. Luckily, my wife was outside the van and had no clue what just happened. Only later when she saw the skid marks coming back from the restaurant did she panic. And yes, the campground at “the edge of the earth, top of the world, in the middle of nowhere” had a restaurant. And surprisingly an very good one.

Definitely got my heart pumping. After it finally stopped, I slowly rolled into the position where it now sits. Wet grass and tires from the rain caught me by surprise. The hill wasn’t that steep.

Nearly on the very edge, I had two choices. Either abandon the idea and let it sit, or continue on. I’m adventurous, so you know what I did. But I am also cautious. I sat for a minute to evaluate my predicament, then unbuckled my seat belt, cracked open the drivers door, and proceeded very slowly to the left and got the van sideways to the to drop off. Any hint of sliding and I was bailing out.

Luckily, it slowly rolled into place without further incident. I was level and safe. Emergency brake, wheel chocks, and the van isn’t moving until we got a couple days of sun to dry out the grass. And we did, several days of sunshine and great sunrises and sunsets from our perch. The weather was perfect for the rest of our stay there.

This part of the trip was worth every penny, inconvenience, hours on the road, and accelerated heartbeats. No obstructions between us, the ocean and cove below, and Newfoundland in the distance. You couldn’t walk around the campfire pit since the back side is on the edge of the drop off. Needless to say, midnight walks after an evening of adult beverages are not recommended.

Some of the campground sites behind us, and the cottages in the background.

A very unique campground in a very unique location. Spectacular views, no services per se, yet a restaurant that had the feel of any decent restaurant in town. Water is available at a single tap for the whole campground. No electric, no dump station, no other services. They did have showers which was nice, although they are in a building mimicking a 1950’s back country hunting shack. Pretty rough, but the water was warm!

Most class As or Cs are likely to bottom out coming off the road and into most of the campsites, so not recommended. It literally is a campground built on a sloping hill on the cliffs to the ocean. Which makes it unique and precarious, but great nonetheless.

1500 miles ago, the van was clean and shinny. The rain washed off most of the mud and dirt, but the trip from Massachusetts to the tip of Nova Scotia still shows. The bugs on the front of the van may never come off.

The sunsets and views were so spectacular, we extended our stay for an additional day. Then another. Considered it yet again, but did have other interests we wanted to pursue. Next year, we will book a week and just stay.

Just you, the ocean, and spectacular views. Roughing it done right. A unique place worth the travel time to get there.

So peaceful. This was a common activity.
Another great morning sunrise to start the day.
This never gets old.

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